The question arises on many occasions, which precious metal we recommend for our jewelry. Simply put we recommend that our clients choose Platinum. The reasons for this recommendation are numerous.
The common misconception is that white gold is actually white. White gold in its bare form is of a pale yellow color whereas Platinum is more of a pure white tone. In order to achieve this pure whiteness white gold is dipped in a liquid plating compound called Rhodium. Rhodium plating wears away though over time and gold's yellowish color underneath starts to become apparent. Platinum in and of itself is white and in time achieves an attractive grayish patina.
Platinum is roughly 60% more dense than gold. This is the reason why the same design in Platinum will be heavier than gold. Although gold can be considered stronger in the sense of it being harder to bend, the density of Platinum and its unlikelihood of wearing away from daily wear gives it the advantage. This density can play a vital role in parts of a jewel such as prongs that hold a center stone or beading in a micro pave piece.
Platinum by its nature is more of a "chewy" metal as opposed to gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch over time with everyday wear but with Platinum these scratches don't remove metal content from a jewel. Polishing or re-polishing of a platinum jewel will result in almost no loss of weight or metal content whereas with gold, a jewel might lose roughly 10% of its weight. Therefore a Platinum jewel can be re-polished much more safely than a gold piece. Gold pieces lose much more metal content after a re-polishing compared to Platinum. This could be vital in areas such as prongs or beading on a pave piece which after re-polishing could severely weaken these prongs. A Platinum piece therefore will better stand the test of time and will be more durable than a gold jewel.
Victor Canera's uniquely hand forged jewels yield a better jewel with Platinum. Platinum is malleable and keeps forms. This is advantageous when you're bending, rolling and pulling the numerous metal parts comprising a piece through rolling mills and strainers. Hand forged pieces are comprised of numerous parts that then need to be assembled and soldered together. Platinum's localized absorption of heat allows for more freedom during soldering without the worry of melting the rest of the jewel during construction. Platinum does not oxidize during manufacturing. There is a huge variety of alloys mixed to create white gold and white gold solder. On a white gold jewel therefore it is almost impossible to match solder color to the piece it's being soldered to. Soldered areas on a gold jewel might result in areas of visible discoloration where solder color doesn't precisely match the base metal. Since platinum is of more a white tone and the alloys combined with it are more of a uniform variety, soldered joints are much less apparent and discoloration is not an issue.
Victor Canera uses a 90% Platinum, 10% Iridium mixture. This mixture, through our accumulated experience, is the most attractive white tone and most durable, scratch resistant of platinum mixtures. 18k gold is also used when needed mixed with various alloys.