The Complete Guide to Platinum

Platinum

Platinum is one of the rarest and most prestigious precious metals used in fine jewelry, valued for its naturally white color, exceptional density, durability, and resistance to corrosion and tarnish. Its distinctive weight gives platinum jewelry a substantial feel, while its naturally white appearance beautifully complements diamonds without requiring the rhodium plating commonly used with white gold.

Platinum is also exceptionally well suited to jewelry designed for generations of wear. Rather than readily losing material when scratched, platinum tends to displace at the surface, gradually developing the soft, satin-like finish known as a platinum patina. This unique wear characteristic, combined with its strength and chemical stability, has made platinum an enduring choice for engagement rings, wedding bands, and important heirloom jewelry.

Another defining quality of platinum jewelry is its exceptionally high precious-metal content. Whereas 14K and 18K gold contain 58.5% and 75% pure gold respectively, fine platinum jewelry is commonly composed of 90% to 95% pure platinum. The remaining portion consists of alloying metals selected to influence properties such as hardness, strength, workability, and finishing characteristics.

Platinum Purity & Alloys

Although platinum jewelry is often described simply as “platinum,” the specific alloy used can have a meaningful effect on how the finished piece performs. Common formulations include 90% platinum with 10% iridium (Pt900/Ir), 95% platinum with 5% iridium (Pt950/Ir), and 95% platinum with 5% ruthenium (Pt950/Ru).

Each retains the fundamental qualities that make platinum desirable, but differences in hardness and mechanical properties can make one alloy better suited to a particular style of jewelry or method of manufacture. For this reason, understanding the alloy is just as important as understanding the percentage of platinum it contains.

At Victor Canera, Pt950/Ru is our preferred platinum alloy. We favor 95% platinum with 5% ruthenium for its exceptional combination of purity, hardness, strength, and finishing characteristics. These properties allow us to create finely detailed jewelry while providing the durability and structural integrity we expect from pieces designed for a lifetime of wear.