A Comparison Between Platinum and Gold
By Victor Canera, GIA Graduate Gemologist
The question arises on many occasions, which precious metal we recommend for our jewelry. Simply put we recommend that our clients choose Platinum. The reasons for this recommendation are numerous.
Color
The common misconception is that white gold is actually white. White gold in its bare form is of a pale yellow color whereas Platinum is more of a pure white tone. In order to achieve this pure whiteness white gold is dipped in a liquid plating compound called Rhodium. Rhodium plating wears away though over time and gold's yellowish color underneath starts to become apparent. Platinum in and of itself is white and in time achieves an attractive grayish patina.
Strength
Platinum of 90% to 95% purity has a density of 21.5g/cc versus 16.0g/cc for 18K gold alloyed with copper and silver making platinum 30% denser than 18K gold. The density advantage of platinum increases as gold karat or purity decreases. Gold's density at 14KT ranges from 12.9-14.6g/cc (depending on alloys), making platinum as much as 60% more dense than 14KT gold. This is the reason why the same design in Platinum will be significantly heavier than gold. Although gold can be considered stronger in the sense of it being harder to bend, the density of Platinum and its unlikelihood of wearing away from daily wear gives it the advantage. This density can play a vital role in parts of a jewel such as prongs that hold a center stone or beading in a micro pave piece.
Durability
Platinum by its nature is more of a "chewy" metal as opposed to gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch over time with everyday wear but with Platinum these scratches don't remove metal content from a jewel. Polishing or re-polishing of a platinum jewel will result in almost no loss of weight or metal content whereas with gold, a jewel might lose roughly 10% of its weight. Therefore a Platinum jewel can be re-polished much more safely than a gold piece. Gold pieces lose much more metal content after a re-polishing compared to Platinum. This could be vital in areas such as prongs or beading on a pave piece which after re-polishing could severely weaken these prongs. A Platinum piece therefore will better stand the test of time and will be more durable than a gold jewel.
Manufacture
Victor Canera's uniquely hand forged jewels yield a better jewel with Platinum. Platinum is malleable and keeps forms. This is advantageous when you're bending, rolling and pulling the numerous metal parts comprising a piece through rolling mills and strainers. Hand forged pieces are comprised of numerous parts that then need to be assembled and soldered together. Platinum's localized absorption of heat allows for more freedom during soldering without the worry of melting the rest of the jewel during construction. Platinum does not oxidize during manufacturing. There is a huge variety of alloys mixed to create white gold and white gold solder. On a white gold jewel therefore it is almost impossible to match solder color to the piece it's being soldered to. Soldered areas on a gold jewel might result in areas of visible discoloration where solder color doesn't precisely match the base metal. Since platinum is of more a white tone and the alloys combined with it are more of a uniform variety, soldered joints are much less apparent and discoloration is not an issue.
Platinum Mixture
Victor Canera uses a 95% Platinum, 5% Ruthenium mixture. This mixture, through our accumulated experience, is the most attractive white tone and most durable, scratch resistant of platinum mixtures. 18k gold is also used when needed mixed with various alloys.
If you have any questions or concerns regarding Platinum, precious metals or anything else that comes to mind please Contact us or Call (888)860-6430 we will be happy to assist you.
Platinum and 18k gold are the two metals we hand-forge most, and the right choice comes down to durability, color, and budget. Platinum is denser, naturally white, and exceptionally durable; 18k gold is lighter, available in warm yellow or (plated) white, and more affordable. Here's how they compare for an engagement ring:
| Attribute | Platinum (95% Pt / 5% Ruthenium) | 18k Gold |
|---|---|---|
| Purity | 95% pure platinum | 75% gold + 25% alloy (copper & silver for yellow; nickel or palladium for white) |
| Density & weight | ~21.5 g/cc — about 30% denser, noticeably heavier | ~16.0 g/cc — lighter on the hand |
| Natural color | Naturally white, permanent | Warm yellow; "white gold" is actually pale yellow in its bare form |
| Keeping it white | No plating, ever | White gold needs periodic rhodium re-plating (≈ every 1–2 years) to stay bright white |
| Durability & wear | "Chewy" — scratches displace metal rather than remove it, so prongs stay secure for decades | Harder surface but more brittle; everyday wear gradually thins the metal |
| Patina | Develops a soft grayish patina (re-polishes to bright anytime) | Holds its color; yellow gold doesn't patina |
| Sensitive skin | Hypoallergenic (95% pure, no nickel) | Usually fine, but some white-gold alloys contain nickel, which can irritate |
| Price | Higher — more metal by weight + a higher metal cost | Lower upfront |
| Best for | Heirloom durability, secure stone-holding, sensitive skin, a permanent white | A lighter ring, a warm yellow tone, or a lower entry price |
Bottom line: choose platinum for maximum durability, a permanently white metal, and an heirloom that holds its stones for generations; choose 18k gold for a lighter ring, a warm yellow tone, or a lower upfront price. Both are hand-forged to the same standard at Victor Canera.
Frequently asked questions
Is platinum heavier than gold?
Yes. Platinum is about 30% denser than 18k gold (21.5 g/cc vs 16.0 g/cc), so the same ring design weighs noticeably more in platinum.
Is platinum stronger than gold?
It depends what you mean. 18k gold has a harder surface, but platinum is more durable over time: it's "chewier," so when it scratches the metal is displaced rather than lost — which keeps prongs secure for decades. Gold gradually thins as it wears.
Does platinum need rhodium plating?
No. Platinum is naturally white and never needs plating. White gold is pale yellow underneath and needs periodic rhodium re-plating (about every 1–2 years) to stay bright white.
Platinum or 18k gold for an engagement ring — which is better?
For durability, a permanent white color, and sensitive skin, choose platinum. For a lighter feel, a warm tone, or a lower price, 18k gold is an excellent choice. Both perform beautifully when expertly hand-forged.